Plywoods

carpentry and joinery

Mark place for the cut, take a metal straight edge and place across the mark. Take a utility knife and cut through the veneer first, then use a saw blade with fine teeth to finish the cut.

I am a small contractor/developer in Buffalo, NY. I have several projects planned for the next year and would like to buy when it makes sense.

I know from experience that items like plywood tend to be pretty volatile (one hurricane or war can change everything).

Timing the market could save me several thousand dollars.

What do you want to do, speculate in this stuff? You have an account on the Chicago Board of Trade or somethin’? I really don’t know if that kind of information is even available to standard consumers. Usually people just buy it, but if you are putting off a non-essential project because of sheathing price, I guess it could be helpful. Maybe call the Commodity Research Bureau? I doubt they will give you the info for free, but they might have it. I’d just be spitballing, but I would say that the price is lower in the winter and higher in the summer.

Bottom line, I have no clue.

–EDIT–
Hey, maybe just found something useful. Who knows, give it a shot.

http://www.randomlengths.com/
http://enr.construction.com/features/conEco/default.asp

to make it smooth for floor covering. Can I use 4X8-7/16 OSB what they call wafer board. The carpenter used this same stuff but 3/4" to replace some of the rotten 1X4’s I am just trying to save money this house has cost me way to much already and I am running out of money fast. So if anyone has a idea of what I can use over this sub flooring that would be cheap please let me know. One carpenter suggested 4X8-1/2 cdx plywood and then rent a floor sander to smooth the ruff spots. I don’t know so if you have any good ideas please let me know and let me know about using the 7/16" OSB.
Also before I put down over-lay would it be wish to put down 15# felt between sub floor and over-lay ? There are a few spot in the 1X4’s with gaps no more than 1/8" I was thinking of this to block any air, etc., etc.,

I d determine what will be your final floor covering before I decide . You might be able to go as thin as 3/8 ply. But your final flooring may decide. Raising the flooring to much you may have troubles for clearances,such as entry doors ,dishwashers, refrigerator etc GL

If I had to guess 25-30#.

I saw an episode of New Yankee Workshop where they built a steamer out of a NEW (never used) metal gas can the was placed upon a heating element or camp stove the steam from the spout went to a chamber with the wood in it. After a period of time he just pulled the wood out with gloves on and shaped. He built a hat rack in that episode I believe.

http://www.newyankee.com/index.shtml

I looked up that episode,it is the one that shows wood steaming techniques, you can order a video of it for about 25 bucks.

I’m making the boards for cornhole toss, and I need to know the best way (besides paint) to finish the boards. As of now, I want to put a prestain conditioner on, and then just a satin topcoat. The question I have is, will this be a strong enough finish for this type of application? Also, will this type of finish be too slick for the boards?

Or, do you have any other suggestions for finishing birch plywood, all while keeping the natural color of the grain show through.

OH! I also plan on putting a large decal right in the center. I’m pretty sure this should go on after the finish, but does anyone have any suggestions regarding this?

Thanks.

pre-stain conditioner has a different purpose and really wouldnt gain you anything. it is used so that stain seeps into wood more evenly decreasing color variation. a sanding sealer would be a better choice. multiple layers of poly on top. spar varnish would be better for ‘weather conditions’. multiple coats of poly OVER the decal would protect it from damage. you could also topcoat with pourable clear epoxy: would let the bags slide a little better.
Hope that helps. Good Luck!

The porch was once covered by indoor/outdoor carpet, but it is now just nailed down sheets of new plywood. Can we just paint and seal it? Should we replace it with smaller wood planks? Any suggestion is appreciated!

Hopefully it is treated plywood, but even if it is, being directly exposed to the weather, it won’t last long. I think it will eventually warp at the very least.
You can paint it if you want to but it should be sealed and a base coat applied.

You might consider covering it with treated planks.
Inquire at your lumber supplier.

It should have a greenish tan color unlike regular plywood.

same as any other wood surface. if under water use bottom type marine paint. exposure to sun use a good primer and surface paint. for boats always use marine grade.

Are my kitchen cabinets plywood or pressboard maybe with some kine of veneer?

If you have stain in them you would lightly sand them (so paint will stick better)with atleast a 120 grit(no less)sand paper.prime any bare wood.Then paint.If you wish to stain them than you need to use paint/stain or varnish stripper.Take it down to bare wood.Possibly might have to sand down some.Then apply stain.The longer you leave stain on the darker it gets.Hoped to have helped.

I have looked everywhere for prices and can’t find them, any price will be helpful

Mostly, you buy plywood in 4′ x 8′ sheets.
That’s why you can’t find pricing.
12′ sheets are sometimes available as a ’special order’ item.
You’ll have to check for local prices/availability with the supplier.

Note:
It is possible to ’scarf joint’ plywood.
It’s a lot of finicky work, but can save you some dough.