I am thinking of building a boat, but all the plans i’ve looked at call for marine plywood or fir wood. Can a boat be built with regular plywood and other woods found at your local hardward stores? What would be the downside to doing that? Can it be treated like you would a deck? Please any advice would help.
I’m no boat builder but I can tell you that your boat will have to be marine plywood or hardwood. Traditionally, Oak was the wood of choice for the big schooners and clippers of the 16th & 16th century and I’m just telling you that to indicate how successful these boats were.
Marine ply will work out cheaper than hardwood’s so it’s really a mater of taste versus budget.
One think you can be sure of – don’t build a boar with regular softwood or lumber as you call it – water will just come through it…
Great project – enjoy
Tom London
Have an inside look at the cabinet manufacturing process employed at the Home Improvement Source. We’ll show how these cabinets are made using solid furniture grade plywood with veneer to match the wood species and stain selected for customers’ doors.
Also, the process of making solid wood doors in the on-site door shop is detailed to show the superior manufacturing proccesses used at the Home Improvement Source.
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More hull sealing and sanding before exterior fiberglass…
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Plastic Ply for fixing tiles and natural stone on wood and timber floors in bathrooms conservatories. Prevents tiles cracking on wood wooden and timber floors. Cheaper and easier to fix than Schluter devi mat & Pecilastic for the trade and diy tiler tiles tiling and wet room floor
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http://www.tourfactory.com/s630560/r_www.youtube.com
For more information, contact:
Linda M Bagley
2064190065
Special Agents Realty
Charming meticulously maintained houseboat nestled on a private gated dock in the heart of Fremont, just down from the Troll under the bridge. Hdwd flrs, knotty pine detailing, high ceilings, eating space & two lrg bedrms. Wide open deck on top. Two nice covered decks on front. One of the most affordable slips on the lake at $400 /mo with added space to store your bikes and kayaks etc… no additional live aboard fees. Free parking close by. Built in wine rack and storage rack in very dry bilge. Storage Compartment in hull Approx 260 Sq Ft 2 bedrooms 3/4 bath, 40 gal. Black Water Tank, Upper Deck 13 X 29, Upper and Lower Front 13 X 5.75 Exterior Cedar Siding, windows Milgard double paned vinyl with screens, Doors, Double glass french doors on main, upper deck has sliding vinyl with screen and door to big deck is custom teak marine door. Heating type – 2 Electic inserts Jotul propane heat stove (nice!) 50 Amp electrical service Drinking water standard city water with dock connection. Hot Water Heater 30 gallon electric. Dimentsions – Length and Width 40′ X 13′, Beam 13′, Draft 1′, Air Height 20′, Hull TYpe – Fiberglass overlay marine plywood, Moorage contact Margie Freeman (206) 632-0152 Marina fee $400/mo includes water and garbage. There is free parking in the area. Parking passes are available for $110/mo Additional features: Also a section of dock includes bike storage for 2 bikes, floating raft for 2 kyaks, Moorage allows for under 16 ft tender moorage at no extra charge Larger boats allowed for additional fee. Updated propane system on board, Continuous alumiunm exterior gutters and downspouts. Built in Ventilation fans in the bilge – very dry. Built in wine and storage racks in bilge. All Moorage fees to be verified with moorage manager.
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Laser cutting a dragon
Laser cut from baltic birch plywood 1/8″
Photo by Jonathan from http://www.physicalgraffitiama.com/
www.legacylasers.com
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Video is only 2 min long, not 3… just realized that I exported with an extra minute of black at the end… oops…
My brother is building a stake ramp in his backyard so I shot a little video on my digital pic camera of us hanging out while he was working on the ramp and then skating a little bit of it as he put the first few sheets of plywood down for the first layer.. still have a lot more work to do….
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I’m curious… What started lumber mills labeling plywood "Marine grade" in the first place? What was it called before they started calling it "marine grade"?
Marine grade – and the other common gradings – goes back to WW2 or shortly after. There had to be a grade of laminated timber of absolute consistency and weight for the construction of the Mosquito fighter bomber, and in developing that it was realised that such a material was probably suited to other structures requiring strength and lightness, such as performance boats. (The PT and MTB boats where built of two layers of 1" mahogany planks laid diagonally with glued canvas between, not plywood as commonly supposed) It didn’t take long for the performance boat builders of the ’50s to use quality ply stressed skin construction for race advantage. The home builder market boomed in the 50’s and 60’s, and uniform timber selection became very desirable in this market. Boat builders of that time as today wanted to purchase a consistent material, and several published standards exist. The problem today is that much crap ply gets stamped as if it is the good stuff, rendering the marks pretty much worthless. None of the standards are enforceable as such – although you could claim false advertising – but that seems to not make any difference to the shonks as there is plenty of fake stuff out there.
The main reason for the marine ply standard is no internal voids, and consistent veneer thickness. The glues are the same as WBP. Particular timber types are specified for Marine grade ply that have good life in a wet environment, face veneers are often exotic timbers for dress value such as mature mahogany. A crude but effective accelerated ageing test for any ply chosen for boatbuilding is to boil a sample for some time and leave to stand overnight – it should stand up to a lot before failure. Aircraft grade ply such as the birch types has no particular rot resistance, aircraft not normally being expected to get wet all the time, the Marine grades should always be built of timber types resistant to rot, but epoxy does help with all types.
Here is a link to a robust discussion on just this subject :- http://backyardboatbuilding.org.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=149 You could reduce those pages to a fairly succinct statement that the labelling is less important than the quality of the supplier themselves, and that Marine ply (the real stuff, not just the stuff with a stamp on it) is lighter than much equivalent WBP ply.
People have built very good boats using no more than WBP and there isn’t any argument that these materials build a perfectly serviceable craft capable of all it’s designer hoped – and with the modern Epoxies just as good a life span. But it is very gratifying to build a boat using the best Marine ply and have it strong, and the lightest weight possible.
When building anything there is always these choices to be made – do you go for the top shelf and best of everything? Or do you economise for cheaper yet quite adequate materials that may not have the best of appearance but will do the job even so? Often it is a pure question of budget – $240 per sheet compared to $70 is a compelling argument…..
Most designs will specify a minimum grade of materials – substitution is fine as long as the substitute is at least as strong as the original material the designer intended. Mostly the only difference in practice is weight – with a racing dinghy this is very critical, a cruiser much less so. The lesser grades of ply with voids and low quality internal veneers are not consistent in strength and weight, I’m sure you have built enough boats now John to have experienced this, and like most of us rely on a good supplier as well as the good old mark one eyeball when going over your stock as it arrives. 
Just a few of the many way you can cover the exposed edges of plywood. Iron on veneer, thin solid wood, and thick solid wood.
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FBT introduced the new KEMPTON brand for a specific pro audio range of products offering quality features and performance at affordable prices.
The New Kempton line of Speaker and Amplification systems are engineered in Italy by FBT Elettronica SpA and designed for a broad range of applications and users, from touring to permanent installations.
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more at www.fbt.it
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