I have a friend doing this and not putting plywood sheating but cheap styrofoam panels. He is spacing them 2′ on center. Where can I get some information online to print off so I can send it to him?
Hmmm. It seems to me to be the story of the three little pigs and the big bad wolf, although they obviously had no code enforcement agencies either.
Certainly there are many "stick built" wood frame homes out there of more than a single story, but I have to wonder "WHAT is he thinking?"
The construction grade cellular foam panels are an OK insulator, but don’t have many other qualities as it pertains to strength of a structure. "16" inch centers are common for a residence. Beyond any Loss or liability, and/or any inspections, etc. that should be done in those regards, I’d have to notify any code enforcement agencies.
If the notion is to save $$$, I suggest he won’t, in any short or long term.
Steven Wolf
(The Rev.)
I rent an apt in Los Angeles, the city just inspected the building and skipped my apt. due to my dogs. the hard wood floors are loose and missing boards. also a section is missing and replaced with plywood due to a water leak from a faulty toilet. I think they should replace it to original hardwood, do they have to? My plan is to call city housing and ask for a anonymous inspection. anything else?? I sublet into this apt and now have my own lease, but the landlord says i took the apt "as is".
He does not have to replace to original hardwood, but you need some sort of flooring. Plywood is legaly flooring.
If your dogs damaged the floor, and dogs will damage wood floors, then you would be the one to replace the floor, not the owner.
I’ve been working on a boomerang for a couple days now. I got the design online and printed it out. I traced it onto some birch plywood and carved it out. I sanded it out and it looks pretty cool. I’m working on the airfoil carving things now but I’m not sure if you’re supposed to do both sides of the boomerang or not and in what direction and stuff. I’ve looked at some videos online but they don’t tell you or show you very well. Anybody know?
The "V" shaped boomerang will have two airfoil surfaces on the same side, one on each arm, but on different edges of the arms. Holding the boomerang in your right hand with the curve being away from you, the flat side should be against your hand and the leading airfoil will be against your thumb with the trailing edge against your fingers. You throw with a snapping downward motion, NOT a side arm.
V
In the "V" view above , the boomerang is laying flat and both airfoirs are on top. One foil is on the outside edge of the left arm and tapers to the right. The other airfoil is on the inside edge of the right arm and tapers to the right. When it is thrown to spin CCW ( as above) both edges will be respective leading airfoil edges.
I’ve never painted plywood before – working OK on master bedroom walls – but have vertical hairline cracks in places where sheets of the plywood join together. Some or the cracks are tiny, and others are 4 to 5 feet long. I tried joint compound and sanding, the cracks returned. Advice from painters / carpenters out there?
Yes… crack are a common problem… if you fill with drywall compound and allow to dry for a few days before you paint then you should see a lot less cracks… and what crack you do see can be filled with a detail brush and a little time…
OK bought the plans sourced the timber got the marine grade plywood for the hull got the tools, know how to read a technical drawing and bang.
Our lass asks what the law is regarding this "Is it like a car and needs a technical inspection an MOT to us Brits or can you just bung it on the water and get on with it what is that number that you see on all sailing yachts and power boats even jet skis if i recall correctly. How do you get one? Typical isnt it first I take something up that other people are genuinley interested in and I can share with other people (I have always built motorbikes before) and they start asking questions even though it is a good one and make it complicated. So any boat builders out there or recreational sailors who have any pointers on this subject I would be really grateful for any input. Thanks in advance
Woman gees they spoil everything.
No mate you don’t need any test, you can sail round the world in a bath tub if your daft enough.
Uroko series REB-9
veneer peeling line
http://www.changi-machinery.url.tw/sitebuilder
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Just traded for this 1 Owner 2001 Honda Odyssey EX – Features include dual sliding side doors with power operation on both. Seats for seven consist of front buckets, two removable buckets in the second row that can slide together to form a bench seat and a third-row bench seat that folds neatly into a recess in the cargo floor. With the magic seat folded, the Odysseys cargo space is wide enough to accommodate a 4-by-8-foot sheet of plywood. Maximum cargo capacity is 146 cubic feet. Call 888-902-1166 – Patty Peck Honda’s Internet Sales Team for availability, finance options, warranty information, and to schedule your test drive. Serving the Jackson Mississippi area since 1984.
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Step by step procedure for a badly rotten stuccoboard area behind some rotten vertical trim: (replacing piece of stuccoboard as well)
Pull out nails with nail puller and/or hammer
scrape off all loose wood and stuccoboard
remove caulk at area to receive saw cut
cut off bad part of trim using a hand saw adjusted properly to exact depth of trim. make sure cut is 90 degrees to edge of trim board
carefully remove bad wood being careful to not rip off caulk along with the outside film surface of your stuccoboard. Use a painters tool to scrape off only the old caulk from the stuccoboard.
Cut out any large sections of bad stuccoboard with the hand saw or an electric cutting tool. Always be careful about generating heat and the potential for starting a fire when using a rotary cutting tool. I always have water close by to cool things down.
Apply two coats of wood hardener to edge of remaining good stuccoboard and trim, also harden, glue and prime area where caulk was removed, exposing masonite
apply two or more coats of glue to stuccoboard edge.
scuff glued areas with sandpaper or steel wool
prime glued area
cut treated plywood to fit area where stuccoboard was removed
nail in plywood and caulk or use flashing tape to seal where plywood meets stuccoboard. (In areas behind trim only)
fabricate an aluminum drip edge that will run down the bottom 2-3 inches of your vertical board (see video)
Make sure edges are rounded in any high-traffic areas. flatten bottom of drip edge by bending it downwards if you want it completely out of the way. I prefer it to stick out a bit if there is no chance of someone bumping into it. That way all water dripping off of the drip edge stays off of the horizontal trim.
Apply flashing tape to top of drip edge and stuccoboard while positioning the drip edge on top of your horizontal board. Rub tape firmly on stuccobard and flashing. Strive for no wrinkles and bubbles in the tape. But once it’s on, it’s not coming off easily.
measure amount of cedar trim “plug” (a spot you require wood for watever reason) or a miratec “plug” to replace removed trim area.
Install plug using deck screws and caulk where top of plug meets existing vertical trim. Make sure you screw into a piece of framing structure. Always drill pilot holes in trim and into the side of house. Also caulk on sides of plug. Do not caulk all the way to rear of trim where vertical trim and plug meet. This will allow water to flow behind trim, if it were to get back there. Do not caulk where plug meets the tray porion of the drip edge. That will keep water from harmlessly dripping out, if the water gets behind trim due to eventual caulk failure.. Use 100% silicone caulk only where Miratec meets stuccoboard. Use polyurethane caulk for all work involving wood trim. Top coat – done !
Step by step procedure for a not so badly rotten stuccoboard or trim area: (fixing stuccoboard or trim with filler)
Instead of cutting out the bad stuccobard or trim, just harden, glue, prime and scuff what you have left, then use exterior spackle to fill rotted area. I use the lightweight spackle. After giving it a few days to cure (feel for stiffness) coat with multiple layers of glue. When it feels like fiberglass, you are done. Scuff and prime glue. Layer 1/8 inch of polyurethane caulk over the primer. Add desired surface texture to caulk by scraping with a pencil-like stick. . Top coat – done!
It is also possible to have decay at the top of a vertical which meets the horizontal board. In that case, you can create a plug or patch, and then top the board with a drip cap. You can see a plug with cap at :26 in this video.
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Florida Southern Plywood
http://www.localedge.com/listing/150544/103902/Florida+Southern+Plywood/9047864382/5909+W+5th+St/ZZ/FL/32254
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Cutting 1/8″ Birch plywood, This time the tabbing worked great !
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