Plywoods

Sheathing refers to exterior cladding (roofs, walls, etc.)

CDX is a specific grade/type of plywood that is most often used for sheathing.

You can sand it lightly but if you want something really smooth go to AC or MDF

I’m planning to install yellow pine flooring over OSB plywood but I want to add another layer of plywood to make the floors more stable and even. I will be face nailing.

I’m reading I should add 1/2 inch CDX plywood, which I’m willing to do but are there any other options? other sizes of plywood? Also if I add the plywood underlayment, do I lay directly on top of the existing OSB plywood or stagger them for more stability?

Once I do that, I want to add rosin felt paper or plastic sheeting between the OSB floor and plywood underlayment. Necessary or unnecessary? This is directly over a basement.

Thanks, you guys are the best!!

I d recommend 1/2 ply wood and go perpendicular to the ply wood down now to get the most ridged sub floor.
Glue and screw this floor well,
Depending on the width of of pine flooring would determine what I d do next.
If you have anything wider the a 4" plank, I would both glue it down and top nail. Since your top nailing I m guessing it isn t tongue and groove pine. If you don t glue a wide plank , that isn t a T&G wood,when top nailing , you very likely to get cupping.
If it is a T&G wood your not as likely and use of a felt paper is recommended to help prevent wood on wood noise.
Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar. GL

Building my own house started in June of 2008 down here in southeast TX and to this day there isn’t a roof on it yet. The house was built out 2×6’s for all framing the floor is 3/4 inch plywood CDX. I pulled one the sheathing panels off side wall I had up and there was mold up on stud plates between the two top plates up there wood seems solid still but my concern is once the roof is on and it all closed in will it be possible to kill the mold or should I just set match to it all and start over except some how go faster next house I build. Im a one man crew. Any suggestions would help thanks.

spray it down with bleach or an mild acid and Finnish it

La planche de plywood est tombé sur les orteils à taupe(le gars avec le gilet blanc)… la planche va vite comprendre qu’elle aurait pas dû…

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Home Roof Inspection and Estimate in Silver Spring, Maryland shows extensive plywood damage, incorrectly applied shingles, roof leaks, damaged rake edges, faulty and leaking pipe collars, and bad flashings. Roofing remedies by www.HomeRestorationsMD.com will include: removing two layers of asphalt shingles, replacement of all or most of the existing plywood with 1/2″ CDX, installation of Berger UDL Synthetic underlayment, plasticaps, new pipe collars, custom formed aluminum chimney flashing, new Certainteed Shingle Vent II ridge vent system, aluminum drip edge on eaves and rakes, and possibly Certainteed WinterGuard “ice-and-water-shield” on all eaves and roof penetrations.

New Roof will include limited pro rated maunfacturer’s warranty and ten (10) year “no leak” labor warranty by www.HomeRestorationsMD.com .

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Joshua removed the flooring, side panels, seats, and cabin doors of his Bayliner boat. Then he made new sidepanels and covered them with foam and grey material. He also remade the rear seats and all of the cushions in the cabin. Then he preplaced the floor with news CDX plywood and installed new seats. The floor will have grey indoor/outdoor carpeting installed.
Beautiful job Joshua!! We love you! May, 2009

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(3) sheets 3/4� CDX plywood
(6) sheets 3/8� CDX plywood
(5) sheets 1/4� Masonite
(46) 2×4s by 8� lengths Douglass Fir or Hemlock
(2) 8� lengths of 2 1/2� round black steel pipe
(1) 5 lb box of 2 1/2� drywall screws

More than I make.

to make it smooth for floor covering. Can I use 4X8-7/16 OSB what they call wafer board. The carpenter used this same stuff but 3/4" to replace some of the rotten 1X4’s I am just trying to save money this house has cost me way to much already and I am running out of money fast. So if anyone has a idea of what I can use over this sub flooring that would be cheap please let me know. One carpenter suggested 4X8-1/2 CDX plywood and then rent a floor sander to smooth the ruff spots. I don’t know so if you have any good ideas please let me know and let me know about using the 7/16" OSB.
Also before I put down over-lay would it be wish to put down 15# felt between sub floor and over-lay ? There are a few spot in the 1X4’s with gaps no more than 1/8" I was thinking of this to block any air, etc., etc.,

I d determine what will be your final floor covering before I decide . You might be able to go as thin as 3/8 ply. But your final flooring may decide. Raising the flooring to much you may have troubles for clearances,such as entry doors ,dishwashers, refrigerator etc GL

(3) sheets 3/4� CDX plywood
(6) sheets 3/8� CDX plywood
(5) sheets 1/4� Masonite
(46) 2×4s by 8� lengths Douglass Fir or Hemlock
(2) 8� lengths of 2 1/2� round black steel pipe
(1) 5 lb box of 2 1/2� drywall screws

Jesus man… who knows, a Home Depot clerk?