Plywoods

I bought a 300,000 home and the upstairs carpet is trashed. The must have had it cleaned for the showing beacause in no time pet smells are now enough to knock you over. My 10 year old daughter and my allergy’s are at their worst.
I have been breaking my back pulling carpet up, nails, staples, tack strip. Plywood is in the 3 bedrooms and hallway.The plywood is not in bad shape, just plywood. The steps are 7×1 and 4×1(rough estimate) on the tread(step) and there is chipboard( think that is what it is called) on the riser, (think that is what it is called-space between steps) I want to install hardwoods when the budget allows as I think that would increase the value of the home…am I right about that? But for now is there something I can do so we can live splinter free and smell free. Also, since we are kinda girly-girls something that looked cute too would be a big bonus for us. Thank you so much and PLEASE HELP!!!! Have a great day !!

anything to help a damsel in distress xx. Right what you can do for now is get a stain that is matt finish for the stairs. You then get some fine sandpaper and sand all the surfaces you want to paint. The chipboard is a little harder but I will get to that. The plywood surfaces you can use the stain on that to give it a decent colour most plywood is very red so you may want to get something which is a little darker like medium oak but not as dark as dark oak that is nearly black. once the plywood is stained you can use a matt varnish on it but make sure you dont use a gloss varnish as this will make the stairs very slippy. The varnish will protect the finish for a while. The Chipboard is another story, no point in trying tio stain or varnish that it will always look bad. What you need on that is a layer of sealant and you can use the varnish if you want it works all you are doing is getting a surface to paint on. Then you need to get a paint which will match your steps colour and paint the riser that colour. Its not ideal but it will make it look a little better until you get your new staircase. I just hope that the pets smells dont come back after alll your hard work as the only thing left is to lift all the floors and replace them. there are some products on the market specifically for this, go to a builders merchants and ask. Hope this helps

The concept is simple yet the result is fantastic. Now you can finish your plywood, or MDF projects with real hardwood edge banding using our Edge Banding router bits. Make your first cut by aligning the center of the male profile to the center of your plywood or MDF board. Your next cut using the female profile will be on your hardwood stock. Make sure to align the center of the router bit with the center of your stock, cut to length on the table saw and glue together. Use either set with stock from ½” to 1″ thick.

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should i use oak plywood or should i use eucalyptus plywood for wardrobes.
has anyone heard of a company called Bhutan Wood. they make plywoods. how good are they in terms of both commercial and waterproof plywood.
IS it better to use softwood or hardwood or a mixture of the two?

I wood use a plywood with a hardwood veneer for the exterior surfaces. Oak takes on a nice finish. I haven’t used Eucalypt plywoods. Commercially graded plywoods should show equivalent minimum performance. Haven’t heard of "Bhutan Wood".

I am installing 3/4" hardwood floors. My subfloor is particle board and should not be used for hardwood installation. I should put a new plywood subfloor in. But the particle board runs underneath the walls, and cannot be completely removed. I could cut it out at the closest joist to the wall. Is there any recommendations on an overlayment of plywood, or a procedure to replace the subfloor?

Is this an accident of a keystroke?

Ah no it’s more of what you added as detail in the previous Q.

Remove any Cove base, and install another Sub/Sub floor, If in fact your convinced by others, that the structure was designed with the abstract intent of having sub flooring that would become a sponge.

Steven Wolf

WOOD flooring seems to be a popular trend. I still suggest you tour NEW construction to see what materials are being used. I assume you’ll find a fair amount of "Particle" or MDF being used for sub-flooring.

This bench top vacuum infuser is a perfect accessory for a vacuum pump. This will allow you to evenly dye veneer and small pieces of wood. You can also infuse wood stabilizing products such as acrylic, sanding sealer or Miniwax Wood Hardener.

The applications for vacuum infusing are broad, ranging from marquetry to pen turning to knife scales. I for one am looking forward to dyeing my own veneer for future marquetry projects.

Try 15 minutes for vacuum infusing veneer. Experiment and have fun!

Stay tuned for the completion of the inlay series.

Happy woodworking!
David

The Folding Rule Blog
http://foldingrule.blogspot.com/

BILL OF MATERIALS
PVC 4 Pipe Caps2 each
PVC 4 Pipe24 inches
Heavy Duty Stem Valve1 each
Vacuum Hose Connector1 each
Vacuum Tape12 inches
Base8 x 8 hardwood or plywood
Truss Head ¾ Screw4 each
Clear Silicone1 small tube
Gasket 4 Diameter12 square sheet from an auto store

RESOURCE LINKS

JoeWoodworker.com
http://www.joewoodworker.com/

Veneer Supplies
http://www.veneersupplies.com/

JoeWoodworker Vacuum Infusion Article
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/vacuum-infusing-chamber.htm

Heavy Duty Stem Valve
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?products_id=246

Vacuum Hose Connector
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=60_36&products_id=254

Vacuum Tape
http://www.veneersupplies.com/product_info.php?cPath=60_46&products_id=2320

TransTint Dyes
http://www.veneersupplies.com/default.php?cPath=86_42

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Hardwood floor installation. How to attach ply wood to concrete permanently. A suitable base for the secret nailing of solid hardwood floors and engineered wood floors http://www.abawoodflooring.ie

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The least toxic flooring seems to be prefinished hardwood. I was told that the hardwood would need to be nailed to plywood. I don’t want to use plywood because of offgassing concerns. What is the best non toxic choice for hardwood floor underlayment?

osb

I pulled up what I thought was lanoleum, but was actually lanoleum on top of plywood. It revealed my hardwood floors, but had small nails tacked everywhere in the floors. There are probably over 4000 nails in the floor with heads that a normal hammers claw can barely grip. I’ve been pulling them out one by one, but is taking forever. Does anyone have a simplier solution, one less time consuming?

I am going to sand and refinish the hardwood floors, so I can’t drive them in. Any suggestions would be awesome! Thanks!!

Use a small pair of vise grips. Grip the head and roll the vise grip onto the top jaw. This will remove the nail. But Sorry, it’s gonna take time no matter what you do.

Don’t ‘pull’ the nail, they will snap off and then you have bigger problems. You have to use leverage to remove them.

Solid wood flooring versus engineered multiply hardwood flooring with heavy wear layer and why engineered multiply hard wood is a superior flooring product. http://www.abawoodflooring.ie

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Here is my scratch built flight simulator control/instrument panel in action with LED’s glowing. Approximately 300 hours and four months of labor were involved. Everything scratch built was; knobs, handles, trim wheel, structure, throttle quadrant, labels and decals – all built from hardwood, plywood, particle board which was cut, shaped, sanded, painted and then epoxied to protect it from constant usage. The only things not scratch built, were (naturally); the light emitting diodes, switches and of course the two control boards from www.desktopaviator.com. The tools used were; basic hand tools, my trusty drill and scroll saw. The whole thing works like a finely oiled machine. Thanks for watching!

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