We have recently had the T-Racks system tested by industry leading testers MIRA. This is a video of the test that took place on the system.
The object of the test was to conduct ‘city crash test’ (nominal 8g for 30ms) in DD ISO/PAS 11154:2006 Annex E, and a ‘20g’ crash test (nominal 20g for 25ms) to determines performance at higher decelerations levels.
The assembly is required to remain intact and the carried load securely restrained during these tests.
The parts being used were two bars and rear roller assembly with 100kg ballast comprising several sheets of plywood attached to the bars using U-bolts.
For the city crash test the assembly was attached to the test fixture using 4 off 8.8 grade M6 bolts, representing the attachment for a VW Transporter T5 roof (worst-case condition).
For the ‘20g’ test the bolt size was increased to M8, however the same number of fixings were used
The Results – The assembly and ballast remained secure during both 8g and 20g tests.
If you need maximum storage space for your van we have zinc plated van racks to suit even the heaviest of loads. We house everything you need to organize your exterior space.
Fitting your van with a high quality roof rack and accessories is surprisingly affordable. Our exterior systems are light weight, easy and quick to fit, yet durable allowing you extra space to transport equipment. We pride ourselves on providing you with the highest quality roof bars at low prices for safety on the go.
Questions
1. Can you fit extras?
Yes, we offer roller systems, tie rails, side rails and end stops. We also supply ladder clamps, pipe tubes, walkways and wind deflectors.
2. What is to stop my system from rusting?
All of our systems are made from steel for strength. However, they are all electroplated, with a clear passivate, to the highest standard. Our end stops are electroplated and powder coated in black.
3. Do you offer a choice of colours?
Yes. Our standard bars are “silver”, as is the colour of the electroplate. We can, however, have your bars powder coated, but this will incur extra cost and extra time.
4. What kind of warranty do you offer?
We give a 12 month guarantee for all goods.
5. Are they easy to fit?
Very easy! The average time for a 2 bar system is under 5 minutes. Obviously, fitting time increases with extra components, but they are genuinely one of the easiest to fit on the market.
6. What is the cost of delivery?
Delivery is included within the retail price
7. Are they strong?
T-Racks roof bars are extremely strong, they have a pre-welded fixing leg which is 3mm thick. The legs are all equipped with vertical folds (many other systems don’t have these) and with the welded leg, fixings are kept to a minimum.
8. What size are they?
They all differ in length from van to van. The crossbars however, are made with a 40mm x 40mm x 1.5mm box section steel.
9. What kind of weight can they carry?
Although the bars are strong, they can only carry up to the maximum weight that the manufacturer of your vehicle advises (including bars). Before fitting, check the weight guidelines with the manufacturer, we can then advise you of the weight of your bars.
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I´m not considering Plywood because of the price.
Here in Brazil there is a myth that MDF is always better , but the industry says that is pure ignorance that in fact particleboard(MDP) is better than MDF in many aspects.
Does anybody have a 20 years kitchen made with one of these materials, have they been proved to be water resistant.
At least I think that googd plywood with veener in both sides to be more expensive than MDF and MDP.
It depends on where you use it in the kitchen. Even most plywood used in cabinets is not water proof. We have cabinets that are about 14 years old in our kitchen. The shelves are MDF that is painted. It has done well with no problems but it doesn’t get wet. The cabinet cases are birch plywood and the doors solid poplar. The key is to have a good solid paint job and not put up dishes when they are wet and clean any food spills in the cabinets right away.
MDF is certainly much cheaper than plywood and if used properly will do well. I wouldn’t use it around the dish washer or sink area but other wise it should do well. It isn’t a good idea for doors because it is easy to damage on the edges.
Particle board will work but doesn’t finish as well as MDF. If you use it, it should be the type that has a factory vinyl coat and then I would still opt for sold wood for the doors.
I need to know for a project, but this size is pretty uncommon and I haven’t been able to find the price of one yet.
1” thick plywood is not a ‘’standard” size, you would have to special order it. 7/8” or 3/4” is standard and you can get it at Lowe’s or Home Depot. The cost will range $20 to $40 depending on the ”grade” you want. Rough finish $20…cabinet grade $40.
I am replaceing a sttep wood shake roof. I live in Los angeles. I’m replacing with Certainteed Presidential shake. I got offers in a wide price range. Some offered plywood some offered OSB plywood and some offered CDX plywood. What are the cost differences and quality differences?
OSB is Oriented Strand Board. Cheaper than plywood but not as strong. Plywood comes in many different types. CDX is exterior grade. It is really ugly but since it will be covered by shingles, siding, etc it doesn’t matter what it looks like. CDX plywood is stronger than OSB but cost more.
Pay the extra money and get the better product. You don’t want to have to come back in a few years and rip up your roof to repair it just to save a few bucks today. The cost of repairs will far exceed any savings you realize.
The thickness of the plywood would be 3/4"
The screws would need to be pretty strong also.
Also what would the prices range around for the screws you recommend.
The thickness of the plywood would be 3/4"
The screws would need to be pretty strong also.
Also what would the prices range around for the screws you recommend.
This would be used to build a storage cube with 9 smaller cubes.
Not really enough info – what are you screwing to what?
I wouldn’t recommend screwing into edges of ply – if it’s two sheets in layers – obviously no more than inch an half. I would be inclined to use pozidriv rather than traditional screws – do you need them countersunk? Cost depends on quantity – tiddly pre-packs cost an arm and a leg.
You might need to use KD fittings – or glue and pin – which can give a strong job, particularly if you mitre the joints or rebate.
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* reproduction inspired by Eames’ iconic original design
* 7 plywood frame
* real wood veneer
* perfect for relaxing in
* 15 degree recline for ultimate comfort
* cast aluminium base, sumptuous cushions
* dimensions: width: 87 cm * depth: 84 cm * height: 88 cm.
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Hi – I’m building a pair of forts for AirSoft. I’ve already worked out location and designed them, etc. but I need to know what the best type of plywood for the situation would be?
The forts will be permanently outdoors, and thus subject to heat, rain, and snow. I don’t care if the wood warps a little or if it doesn’t look pretty or anything. Basically if it will hold a screw, stop AirSoft BBs, and not collapse when wet, I’m happy.
Cost is a concern, as these forts will be essentially 5′ cubes, and there will be two of them.
What type of plywood would you recommend? Particle board, MDF, or something else? And what thickness would be best? I was thinking 3/4" but that could be totally wrong.
Also, it would be nice to get a price estimate, I don’t care how rough.
Thanks!
use 3/4" exterior plywood prime than paint whatever color
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It depends on the volume you are looking for. Most places are not going to sell you a few sheets at a wholesale price. Even if you are buying moderate quantities, the wholesalers may not sell to you for less than you can buy it at a place like Home Depot since they buy literally thousands of sheets a day.