Building a barbie house as a gift for my girls for christmas. Approx dimensions 36″ wide x 12″ deep x 42″ high. Made from leftover 1/2″ plywood (walls & floors), 1/8″ hardboard (backwall), and 1/4″hardboard (room divider) wood materials. Scrapbooking cardstock, foamboard, and peel n’ stick carpet & vinal/linoleum used for the interier/exterior.
Duration : 0:4:12
http://www.EnergyBrainiac.com – Build Your Own Homemade Solar Panels and Power Your Home For FREE !
By building your own homemade solar panels, you can now easily take advantage of free solar energy and lower your electricity bills. This is particularly useful for homeowners in these difficult economic times. Best thing is, the technology to build and install homemade solar panels is now within easy reach of the average consumer.
If you appreciate the occasional DIY project, then this one is perfect for you. With a proper set of tools and the right materials like plywood, glass sheets, and photovoltaic cells, you will be able to start building your own solar energy panels. You probably already have most of the necessary tools at home, and the other materials are easily available in stores or on the Internet.
Where to Install your Homemade Solar Panels
The rooftop is generally the best place to install solar energy panels, as this is the area that usually receives the most direct sunlight. If this is not the case, the panels can also be placed in the backyard, in a spot where the sunlight is not obstructed.
Homemade solar panels are easy to install as long as you have an instructional guide handy. You will find a number of affordable resources available on the Internet that you can use.
Taking it One Step at a Time
The best way to start your project would be to first build a small solar panel. This way, you can familiarize yourself with the process of building the panels more easily. Once you have completed the first panel, you can then start building more until you reach the number required for your home. If you wish, you can even build enough solar panels to provide for all of your home energy needs, making your home completely independent of the regular power grid!
Solar energy panels also require very little effort to maintain, making this a favorable DIY project for many homeowners. If you are willing to put in the effort to make this DIY project work, you will find that building homemade solar panels will save you large amounts of money on your electricity bills.
Want to build your own homemade solar panels but don’t know where to start?
Fret not! Many people just like you have successfully built these on their own to DRASTICALLY cut their monthly electricity consumption. They are already shaving $1000s off their energy bills every year. If you need STEP-BY-STEP guidance in installing one, I have reviewed the Best Online Guides on Homemade Solar Panels for your convenience. These highly recommended guides provide EASY-TO-FOLLOW instructions that will help you save money in no time.
Dave Keller is a Renewable Energy Specialist who takes pride in helping the average consumer save on their energy bills using simple DIY devices… and give power companies a run for their money! Learn his secrets that most people will never know about how to build solar panels to harness FREE energy…
Build Your Own Homemade Solar Panels and Power Your Home For FREE !
Build Your Own Homemade Solar Panels and Power Home For FREE costs diy earth earth4energy earthenergy efficiency efficient electric electricity eliminate energy environment free fuel generate generator global green grid heat heater help home homemade house how instructions kits live make manufacturer market money natural panel panels plant power renewable residential resources review save scam sell solar sun system technology transformers turbine turbines wind windmills work
Duration : 0:1:37
Step by step procedure for a badly rotten stuccoboard area behind some rotten vertical trim: (replacing piece of stuccoboard as well)
Pull out nails with nail puller and/or hammer
scrape off all loose wood and stuccoboard
remove caulk at area to receive saw cut
cut off bad part of trim using a hand saw adjusted properly to exact depth of trim. make sure cut is 90 degrees to edge of trim board
carefully remove bad wood being careful to not rip off caulk along with the outside film surface of your stuccoboard. Use a painters tool to scrape off only the old caulk from the stuccoboard.
Cut out any large sections of bad stuccoboard with the hand saw or an electric cutting tool. Always be careful about generating heat and the potential for starting a fire when using a rotary cutting tool. I always have water close by to cool things down.
Apply two coats of wood hardener to edge of remaining good stuccoboard and trim, also harden, glue and prime area where caulk was removed, exposing masonite
apply two or more coats of glue to stuccoboard edge.
scuff glued areas with sandpaper or steel wool
prime glued area
cut treated plywood to fit area where stuccoboard was removed
nail in plywood and caulk or use flashing tape to seal where plywood meets stuccoboard. (In areas behind trim only)
fabricate an aluminum drip edge that will run down the bottom 2-3 inches of your vertical board (see video)
Make sure edges are rounded in any high-traffic areas. flatten bottom of drip edge by bending it downwards if you want it completely out of the way. I prefer it to stick out a bit if there is no chance of someone bumping into it. That way all water dripping off of the drip edge stays off of the horizontal trim.
Apply flashing tape to top of drip edge and stuccoboard while positioning the drip edge on top of your horizontal board. Rub tape firmly on stuccobard and flashing. Strive for no wrinkles and bubbles in the tape. But once it’s on, it’s not coming off easily.
measure amount of cedar trim “plug” (a spot you require wood for watever reason) or a miratec “plug” to replace removed trim area.
Install plug using deck screws and caulk where top of plug meets existing vertical trim. Make sure you screw into a piece of framing structure. Always drill pilot holes in trim and into the side of house. Also caulk on sides of plug. Do not caulk all the way to rear of trim where vertical trim and plug meet. This will allow water to flow behind trim, if it were to get back there. Do not caulk where plug meets the tray porion of the drip edge. That will keep water from harmlessly dripping out, if the water gets behind trim due to eventual caulk failure.. Use 100% silicone caulk only where Miratec meets stuccoboard. Use polyurethane caulk for all work involving wood trim. Top coat – done !
Step by step procedure for a not so badly rotten stuccoboard or trim area: (fixing stuccoboard or trim with filler)
Instead of cutting out the bad stuccobard or trim, just harden, glue, prime and scuff what you have left, then use exterior spackle to fill rotted area. I use the lightweight spackle. After giving it a few days to cure (feel for stiffness) coat with multiple layers of glue. When it feels like fiberglass, you are done. Scuff and prime glue. Layer 1/8 inch of polyurethane caulk over the primer. Add desired surface texture to caulk by scraping with a pencil-like stick. . Top coat – done!
It is also possible to have decay at the top of a vertical which meets the horizontal board. In that case, you can create a plug or patch, and then top the board with a drip cap. You can see a plug with cap at :26 in this video.
Duration : 0:6:12
My home’s exterior is stuccoboard and rough-cut cedar trim. It was built in 1979 and about 25% of the cedar trim was replaced in 1993 when I moved in.
I pretty much neglected the wood after I moved in. I had done some minor repairs with exterior filler and used a lot of acrylic caulk, but as of the summer of 2006, I had a considerable amount of rotten trim around the entire house. The worst areas are where a vertical board and a horizontal board intersect. I had quite a bit of badly warped trim as well. Areas of stuccoboard were rotten under the trim in a few cases.
If I could keep these trim intersections from “wicking” and retaining moisture, which allows decay to eventually set in, I could probably solve the problem. This is where drip edges for the intersections idea started. That, along with a composite trim board are my vision for a much more maintenance-free stuccoboard home.
A piece of stuccobard panel is ten feet high by four feet wide with 1×8 cedar boards surrounding the perimeter of the panel. Generally an eight foot vertical board runs along the side of a panel and meets a horizontal board at the top and the bottom of the panel. I only have a couple of strictly “decorative” trim boards.
My home is two story, and I’m not really comfortable working more than about 12 feet off the ground. Most of the decayed cedar is located where the bottom of a vertical board meets the top edge of the horizontal board. This is true either on the first or second level. So, I can reach most repairs from the ground or on a short ladder. I had a couple repairs twenty feet up in the air, and I hired a carpenter for those. As far as the horizontal boards, I’ve replaced most all of them on my house. All four sides had bad trim boards. Especially those that were facing south and west, and corners. Most of the vertical trim is still the original thirty-year old boards, although I needed to repair many of these as well.
Most carpenters will just tear out an entire vertical board and replace it with a new one. Even if only the bottom few inches is bad. Since these decayed areas are in reach, and carpenters, paint and caulk are expensive (not to mention trees and landfills), I was looking for a good way to fix these decayed areas on the bottom of the vertical boards. I believe I have found (invented!) one. This method would probably work on t111 buildings or others with similar issues, though I have not tried it.
Many of the horizontal boards underneath a window were also decayed and/or warped. On the second level, these were about thirteen feet off the ground, so I was able to safely reach and replace those as well.
I selected Miratec synthetic trim board instead of cedar for the project. It is warranted for 30 years against rotting and warping. It looks good, it has a woodgrain appearance to it, and it seems to be standing up to the weather very well. The first boards I installed, on the south side of the house in 2006, still look great. The caulk seam along the top of the horizontal boards, and the sides of the vertical board “plugs”, which is 100% silicone rubber (GE XST paintable), still looks brand new. This is a major point of caulk failure, and eventual rot on a cedar trim board. I have also found that the quality of today’s rough-cut cedar boards is not the same as it was 30 years ago.
All miratec trim is screwed on with deck screws approximately 18 inches apart. I use 3.5 inch “deck mate” treated screws. I need to go through an inch of trim, a half inch of stuccoboard, and an inch of styrofoam sheet insulation. This leaves one inch of screw to go through framing wood.
project totals:
horizontal composite trim – 139 feet
vertical composite trim – 69 feet
vertical cedar trim – 40 feet
horizontal cedar trim – 8 feet
fascia replaced – 60 feet
fascia covered with vinyl-coated aluminum – 120 feet
stuccoboard panel replaced – 1
steel doors and wooden jambs replaced w/ fiberglass – 3
composite or wooden trim plugs installed – 22
aluminum drip edges – 45
aluminum drip caps – 10
plywood repairs – 6
filler repairs – 16
tubes of 100% silicone paintable caulk – 20
tubes of polyurethane caulk – 34
2″ flashing tape – 150 feet
exterior weatherproof glue – 1.75 quarts
wood hardener – 1.5 quarts
The drip edges and trim plugs are almost impossible to see unless you are very close to them, and are looking right at them. Which is rare for 99% of the people that visit my home. I believe they look pretty good. I created some plugs of salvaged, seasoned cedar and you can barely tell they are there. The plug at 1:49 is a sixty year-old piece of cedar. It still looks good.
Go to video part two for the description on how to do a repair
Duration : 0:9:45
As you probably concluded, I’m huge fan of Silent Hill franchise. So, when thinking about building a pet cage, I came accros the probably most perfect and perverted idea of all times – to copy Midwich Elementary school from first Silent Hil game.
The objective – to stay as close as possible to the source. No, there won’t be furniture and stuff. Well, maybe just yet – that’s if the pet will not consume my creation in about month or so (interrior is made using plywood, exterior will be ungnawable – from steel – fence thingy or bars), hehe.
Pretty much of progress is done since filming this video in such an awfull quality, video, using Nokia 6630. Work in progress – more videos (better in terms of quality and information, cinematography (lol)) to come, my friends!
P.S. This is my first step to world domination!!!
Some pics and info will be updated in my blog (in latvian; you can always use Google Translate, for example – just to get somegeneral idea and lots of laughs): http://klab.lv/users/disfigurator/76488.html
Duration : 0:2:48
when i get my house in order(a lot of unfinished remodeling) i’m planning on building an aquarium something like this…
outside dimentions are 8′x4′x4′, inside dim. 7′ 3.5″ x 3′ 3″x4′(709gal)’. i’m planning on only filling it about 3′(532gal adjustable) because i want to have plants that grow out of the water. floating plants or what i have in my tank right now but with better control.
made of plywood sheets, 2×4’s and 1/2″ acrylic. was going to fiberglass the inside but started to think to just use a pond line trimmed and siliconed into place… shown without a skin to show this can be insulated to stabilize water temp. sides can even be drywalled to the room as for appropriate designed stand and hood.
sorry about the jittery video…
for some reason my video capture slows the animation when in use. i don’t know why i have more than enough memory on the pc…
Duration : 0:1:1
This is the first time I tested my new blades for my wind turbine. They are 5′ 1″ long on a 14″ diameter hub. The rotor is 10.5′ in diameter; the blades are a cedar-epoxy composite; the hub is marine plywood/epoxy. The tower is 36′ high. The blades start spinning from 0 rpm to somewhere near 500 rpm. Although they appear in the video to slow down due to the frame rate, they become invisible to the naked eye. You can read the whole project at http://www.mindchallenger.com/wind
Duration : 0:0:28
http://www.stefanoumaritime.com/
LOA : 19,90m
Material : GRP + Plywood
Yearbuilt : 2003
Location : Thessaloniki, Greece
Price : 265.000 Euros
If you like this boat and you are willing to buy it then you can contact us directly to the mail address hereunder for further information :
stefanoumaritime@gmail.com
Duration : 0:0:43
Zipblocks are boring…for that matter so are bricks, cinderblocks, and most other building materials. But hey…lets not forget get that the Great Pyramid of Giza was built from blocks.
This video on Zipblocks is also a bit boring…but if you watch it and then take a few seconds to think about how simple Zipblocks are and what you can do with them…you might develop an appreciation for Zipblocks. What’s more is that if you do like Zipblocks and you introduce them to a company and as a result they decide to manufacture them you’ll get a percentage of the royalties. To learn more about this just visit our website.
What is really nice about Ziplocks is that the entire building system consists of only two types of block and that longer blocks are simply multiples of a single block. Zipblocks can be made from virtually any solid material. Zipblocks are so simple that you can make them in your garage out of plywood if wanted to. Sides and lugs are the only two parts needed to create Zipblocks. So all in all this entire building system consists of only two different block types that can be created from two simple parts.
The costs of manufacturing Zipblocks are low. To put things in perspective consider this scenario. Let’s say that it costs $20 for a sheet of ¾ inch plywood and that it costs a factory $2 to transform one sheet of plywood into fully assembled blocks. In this case the transformation from plain plywood to Zipblocks generally speaking adds 10% to the costs of the raw materials. We can now visualize home improvement stores selling sheets of plywood for $20 and the equivalent plywood in bundles of Zipblocks for $22.
Let’s say that you wanted to create your very own custom wall unit in your living room that covered an entire wall from floor to ceiling. Let’s just say that this wall is 20 feet long and 12 feet tall. Can you imagine how much it would cost you if you walked into your local home supply center and made this request? It would probably cost you a fortune in both labor and materials. Now picture yourself walking into the same store and ordering 4 to 5 pallets of Zipblocks, having them delivered to you home, and then building your very own wall unit all in a days time. The cost would of course be much less and you would have a custom wall unit that you designed and built all by yourself. This would indeed be a much more rewarding experience.
What we just spoke about is more than ideal. What’s more is that when you build with Zipblocks and you make a mistake. No problem. Just disassemble your mistake and fix it. Moving to another home and the living room is smaller? Again…no problem…just dissemble your wall unit, ship it to your new home, and when you get there build another custom wall unit that suits to your needs.
You know, the great thing about these blocks is that you can build just about anything with them. Imagine how much fun you could have building some really cool workbenches in your garage or putting up some giant shelves in there. How about building a dog house for your dog or a playhouse for your child or a closet organizer?
You see there are simply countless things that you can build with Zipblocks and if you ever get tired of what you built…just break it down and use your blocks for something else! Zipblocks are essentially a product that never loses its value or usefulness.
Some other uses for Zipblocks:
1) Robotic Building Blocks — It is easy for robots to manipulate Zipblocks thru the x-y-z planes as they are cubic in nature and interlock upon placement.
2) Concrete Forms — rapidly build a disposable custom concrete forms using some wooden Zipblocks.
3) Levee Walls — 16 foot lengths of Zipblocks made from a hybrid of plastic reinforced with steel and then woven together would certainly aid in the construction of levee walls. New Orleans and other flood prone areas are in need of cheap and effective solutions.
4) Walkways and Patios — 8 foot lengths of plastic based Zipblocks could be used to instantly build patios and walkways.
5) Shipping containers — Build custom shipping containers. Upon arrival in 3rd world countries containers could be broken down and used to construct shelter.
http://www.ZipBlocks.com
Visit us to find out more about Zipblocks.
Duration : 0:0:31
Hardwood flooring sub floor preparation